Appalachian dress has a rich history influenced by the people of the region and the socioeconomic climate of the United States.

The 1920s was a time of prosperity and opulence for many individuals, but the poorer Appalachian region was an exception for the Gilded Age. Working-class and impoverished individuals across the South started “old-clothes clubs” or “overalls clubs” to protest the rising expensive fashions. The Great Depression had created a shortage on textiles and other fashion materials, so Southern Appalachian women turned to using feed sacks as textiles. The craze was so big in the 1930s that feed sack manufacturers started created custom prints for the bags.

Photo of Maggie Lewis and Wilma Creech in 1934. (Contributed/appvoices.org)

Most of the early 20th century saw women as the primary makers of fashion in the region. Women can be seen learning how to make textiles at the Penland School of Handicrafts in Asheville, which maintained a relationship with ETSU for many years. (archivesofappalachia.omeka.net/exhibits/show/sterchi/appalachian-industrial-school)

As commercial fashion became more available in the 40s and 50s, we see a homogenization of fashion in the region. We can see racks of ready-to-wear fashion in this image from a Johnson City Kmart in mid-20th century. (archivesofappalachia.omeka.net/items/show/14699)

Poodle skirts, Dior’s New Look gowns and victory roll hairstyles flooded the region, and the trends of the nation became that of the region for many years. We can see the power suits of the 1980s appear in this King’s Department Store show in the 1980s. (archivesofappalachia.omeka.net/items/show/13869)

During the ’60s and ’70s, a renewed interest in traditional, handmade garments arose. The Mountain Artisans recruited West Virginian women to make these garments, and they were honored for their contributions to American fashion in 1972 with a Coty award. Nowadays, the traditional “working class” look of the Appalachians can be seen in fast fashion retailers across the globe.

An obsession with the rustic and mountain man vibes has spread across the world, but we shouldn’t forget where the fashions came from.

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